Directed by David Gelb
In Japanese with
English subtitles
This documentary on the-then-85-year-old sushi master Jiro
Ono is a must-see for sushi lovers, foodies, or anyone who has respect for
those who strive to perfect their craft. On the surface, the movie seems to be about a man that is obsessed with making sushi, but in reality it is actually a story about the search for and creation of harmony.
We learn about the experience of having a meal at Jiro
Ono’s Sukiyabashi Jiro, which is the first sushi restaurant to receive a
Michelin three-star rating. Located in a Tokyo subway station, the restaurant
seats only 10 and reservations are made at least a month in advance. The menu
is a set menu costing 30,000 yen (approximately $375) consisting of 20 pieces
of sushi. Now, this may seem an extraordinary amount to pay for a meal that
lasts only about 15 to 20 minutes. However, the movie recounts how the meal is
served as if it were a symphony. (To enhance the symphony analogy, the movie is
accompanied by classical music from Beethoven and Philip Glass.)
It’s not an ordinary meal. This is sushi prepared with a
lifetime of experimentation (seemingly scientific at times) and passion. Jiro
Ono is no mere sushi chef—he is known as a shokunin
(craftsman or artisan). He started working with sushi at the age of 9, and he
has never strayed or been distracted from perfecting new ways to prepare the
perfect piece of sushi. He does not believe that he will ever attain his goal, but
that does not deter him from trying to do so every day.
He is known for his soft-handed, two-fingered technique. He
advises his apprentices that they should handle the fish and rice as if they
were pinching a baby chick. Apprentices train for at least 10 years before
they’re even allowed to touch the food. All of the ingredients are selected by
masters in their specialties—from the tuna buyer, the shrimp buyer, and the
rice buyer. The rice is served at body temperature and the fish at room
temperature.
As he was 85 when the movie was shot in 2011, how will his
legacy continue? He has two sons who appear in the film. The younger son has
opened a sister restaurant in Roppongi Hills. The restaurant’s layout is a
mirror image of the father’s. As the father is left-handed, and the son is
right-handed it creates perfect symmetry. His older son, Yoshikazu, works in
his father’s restaurant and he will take over when his father retires or
becomes unable to continue working. The question of course is whether the son
will live up to the father’s accomplishments. The film answers that with a
resounding yes, with an astonishing climactic revelation.
After watching, don’t be surprised if you find that you, too, have dreams of sushi!
Note: Would also highly recommend watching the specials that come
with the BluRay or DVD (i.e., deleted scenes and commentary).